The Sterling Road Sweater – Turtleneck Crochet Pattern

 
The Sterling Road Sweater Pattern is here!!
I am so in love with this turtleneck pullover, I’ve been wearing it non-stop since it came off of my hook!
 
 
Available in sizes Sm-5x
 
I designed this pattern with this absolutely gorgeous KT and the Squid Yarn called Dunja, it’s a subtle grey base that has these vibrant flecks of colour throughout!
I love speckles so much, you guys.
The sleeves are cuffed with the July Mystery Yarn that KT and the Squid dyed this summer, and it matched perfectly!
 
 
This is one of those designs that people come up and ask you if you made it, and if it’s knitted, so you can answer YES, and NO. It’s crocheted, friends!
 
So here’s the thing. This will take you a bit to crochet. It’s not a quick project. But will it be worth it? Heck yes!!
 
I can’t wait to see yours, if you are looking for some alternative yarns, here are a few suggestions:
>> Loops and Threads Woolike
>> KING COLE Comfort 3-ply
>> Bernat Baby
 
 
 
I can’t wait to see your Sterling Road Sweaters! Be sure to tag me on Instagram to show me your progress <3
 
 
 

“Use your favorite light-weight yarn to crochet a gorgeous turtleneck that mimics knit!”

Difficulty

Intermediate.

Yarn

KT and The Squid – DK weight, 75% Superwash Merino/25% Nylon, 246 yds/100g:  9 (10, 10, 11, 11, 12, 12, 13) skeins Dunja (A).

KT and The Squid – Sock weight, 75% Superwash Merino/25% Nylon, 437 yards/100g:  1 skein July Mystery Yarn (B). 

Materialshttps://www.ktandthesquid.com/product/dunja-dyed-to-order/?aff=9

US Size D/3 (3.25mm) crochet hook, large yarn needle, scissors, 4 stitch markers.

Abbreviations

Ch = chain

Sc = single crochet

Fphdc = front post half double crochet

Bphdc = back post half double crochet

Special Stitches

Fhdc (Foundationless half double crochet) = chain 2, yo and insert hook into 2nd chain from hook, *yo and draw up a loop, yo and draw through 1 loop (chain made), yo and draw through 3 loops (hdc made), yo and insert hook into chain; repeat from * for indicated number of sts. 

Sizes

Sm, (Med, Lg, XL, 2x, 3x, 4x, 5x). 

Measurements 

32-34” (36-38, 40-42, 44-46, 48-50, 52-54, 56-58, 60-62)” 

Gauge

22 sts x 26 Rows = 4”

Notes

  1. Work in continuous rounds unless otherwise indicated. 
  2. Sweater is worked top-down. 
  3. Move st markers up as work progresses. 

Instructions

Collar

With A, fhdc 128 (132, 136, 148, 160, 164, 168, 180), join with a sl st to form a ring. 

Round 1:  Ch 1 (does not count as a st here and throughout), [fphdc 2, bphdc 2] around, join–128 (132, 136, 148, 160, 164, 168, 180) sts. 

Round 2:  Repeat Round 1 until piece measures 10” from beginning. 

Yoke

Round 1:  Ch 1, sc and place st marker, sc 23, sc and place st marker, sc 37 (39, 41, 47, 53, 55, 57, 63), sc and place st marker, sc 23, sc and place st marker, sc 41 (43, 45, 51, 57, 59, 61, 67)–128 (132, 136, 148, 160, 164, 168, 180) sts. 

Round 2:  Sc around. 

Round 3:  *sc in marked st, 2sc in next, sc to st before next marker, 2 sc in next: repeat from * around–136 (140, 144, 156, 168, 172, 176, 188) sts.

Rounds 4-51 (59, 69, 73, 79, 87, 93, 95):  Repeat Rounds 2-3–328 (364, 408, 436, 472, 508, 536, 556) sts, 74 (82, 92, 96, 102, 110, 116, 118) between markers 1&2, 88 (98, 110, 120, 132, 142, 150, 158) between markers 2&3, 74 (82, 92, 96, 102, 110, 116, 118) between markers 3&4, 92 (102, 114, 124, 136, 146, 154, 162) between markers 4&1. 

Separate Arms 

Remove st markers as you work. 

Round 1:  Skip 1st 74 (82, 92, 96, 102, 110, 116, 118) sts, ch 10 and place st marker in 4th ch, sc to next marker, skip 74 (82, 92, 96, 102, 110, 116, 118) sts and ch 10, placing st marker in 4th ch, sc in remaining sts–180 (200, 224, 244, 268, 288, 304, 320) sts, with 74 (82, 92, 96, 102, 110, 116, 118) for each sleeve. 

Round 2:  Sc around for 6”.

Body

Round 1:  *sc 6, sc2tog, sc to 8 before next st marker, sc2tog, sc 6: repeat from * around–172 (192, 216, 236, 260, 280, 296, 312) sts. 

Rounds 2-4:  Sc around.

Round 5:  Repeat Round 1–164 (184, 208, 228, 252, 272, 288, 304) sts.

Rounds 6-8:  Sc around. 

Round 9:  Repeat Round 1–156 (176, 200, 220, 244, 264, 280, 296) sts.

Rounds 10-12:  Sc around.

Round 13:  Repeat Round 1–148 (168, 192, 212, 236, 256, 272, 288) sts.

Rounds 14-16:  Sc around.

Round 17:  Repeat Round 1–140 (160, 184, 204, 228, 248, 264, 280) sts. 

Round 18:  Sc for 1.75 (2, 2.25, 2.5, 2.75, 2.75, 3, 3)”.

Round 19:  *Sc 6, 2 sc in next, sc to 6 before next marker, 2 sc in next, sc 6; repeat from * around–148 (168, 192, 212, 236, 256, 272, 288) sts.

Rounds 20-22:  Sc around.

Round 23:  Repeat Round 19–156 (176, 200, 220, 244, 264, 280, 296) sts.

Rounds 24-26:  Sc around.

Round 27:  Repeat Round 19–164 (184, 208, 228, 252, 272, 288, 304) sts.

Rounds 28-30:  Sc around. 

Round 31:  Repeat Round 19–172 (192, 216, 236, 260, 280, 296, 312) sts. 

Round 31:  Sc for 2”.

Change to B

Round 32:  Sc for 1”.

Sleeves

Round 1:  Sc 74 (82, 92, 96, 102, 110, 116, 118) around, sc 8 on Body (underarm) place st marker, sc 8 on Body (underarm continued)–90 (98, 108, 112, 118, 126, 132, 134) sts. 

Rounds 2-4:  Sc around.

Round 5:  *sc 2, sc2tog, sc to 4 before st marker, sc2tog, sc 2–88 (96, 106, 110, 116, 124, 130, 132) sts. 

Rounds 6-8:  Sc around. 

Round 9:  Repeat Round 5–86 (94, 104, 108, 114, 122, 128, 130) sts.

Rounds 10-12:  Sc around. 

Round 13:  Repeat Round 5–84 (92, 102, 106, 112, 120, 126, 128) sts. 

Rounds 14-16:  Sc around.

Round 17:  Repeat Round 5–82 (90, 100, 104, 110, 118, 124, 126) sts. 

Rounds 18-20:  Sc around. 

Round 21:  Repeat Round 5–80 (88, 98, 102, 108, 116, 122, 124) sts.

Rounds 22-24:  Sc around.

Round 25:  Repeat Round 5–78 (86, 96, 100, 106, 114, 120, 122) sts. 

Rounds 26-28:  Sc around. 

Round 29:  Repeat Round 5–76 (84, 94, 98, 104, 112, 118, 120) sts.

Rounds 30-32:  Sc around. 

Round 33:  Repeat Round 5–74 (82, 92, 96, 102, 110, 116, 118) sts. 

Rounds 34-35:  Sc around. 

Round 36:  Repeat Round 5–72 (80, 90, 94, 100, 108, 114, 116) sts.  

Rounds 37-39:  Sc around. 

Round 40:  Repeat Round 5–70 (78, 88, 92, 98, 106, 112, 114) sts. 

Rounds 41-43:  Sc around. 

Round 44:  Repeat Round 5–68 (76, 86, 90, 96, 104, 110, 112) sts. 

Rounds 45-47:  Sc around. 

Round 48:  Repeat Round 5–66 (74, 84, 88, 94, 102, 108, 110) sts. 

Rounds 49-51:  Sc around. 

Round 52:  Repeat Round 5–64 (72, 82, 86, 92, 100, 106, 108) sts. 

Rounds 53-57:  Sc around. 

Round 58:  Repeat Round 5–62 (70, 80, 84, 90, 98, 104, 106) sts. 

Rounds 59-65:  Sc around. 

Round 66:  Repeat Round 5–60 (68, 78, 82, 88, 96, 102, 104) sts. 

Round 67:  Sc for 3 (3, 3.5, 3.5, 4, 4, 4.5, 4.5)”, changing to B after 1”. 

Crochet longer sleeve if needed. 

Round 68:  Repeat Round 5–58 (66, 76, 80, 86, 94, 100, 102) sts. 

Round 69:  Sc for 1”.

Round 70:  Repeat Round 5–56 (64, 74, 78, 84, 92, 98, 100) sts. 

Round 71:  Repeat Round 69.

Round 72:  Repeat Round 5–54 (62, 72, 76, 82, 90, 96, 98) sts. 

Round 73:  Repeat Round 69.

Round 74:  Repeat Round 5–52 (60, 70, 74, 80, 88, 94, 96) sts. 

Rounds 75-81:  Sc around. 

Sizes Lg and XL only

Round 82:  Sc2tog, sc around–68 (72).

Round 82 (82, 83, 83, 82, 82, 82, 82):  Sl st in next st, ch 1, *fphdc 2, bphdc 2; repeat from * around, join–52 (60, 68, 72, 80, 88, 94, 96) sts. 

Round 83 (83, 84, 84, 83, 83, 83, 83):  Ch 1, [fphdc 2, bphdc 2] around, join. 

Work last Round until ribbing measures 2”. 

Fasten off, weave in ends.  

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9 thoughts on “The Sterling Road Sweater – Turtleneck Crochet Pattern

  1. Is there a way to make this without the turtleneck part? Like start it right at the yoke? This is the only pattern using single crochet that I’ve been able to find, and I really like how the body of this looks. (size 2/3 xl)

  2. Hi, I’m really enjoying working on this project but I’m a little bit confused about separating the arms! At the end of the yoke, I didn’t cut the yarn and went straight into the chain 10 (for the small size) but for the second round, I was unsure whether I should single crochet in the chains as well? The total number of stitches seemed to suggest that I should only continue with the 180 stitches that are there from the yoke, but then round 1 of working the body reduces by 8 stitches, but I can only see a decrease of 4 (the sc2tog after the beginning and before the end of each of the two panels that are still there from the yoke).

    I love how this is turning out and would really appreciate a little bit of advice on how to make this work!

    1. Hey there! Yes, you’ll be sc in the chains as well. When you go on to the decreases, you’ll still have 4 stitch markers, it’s just that 2 of them will be moving onto the chain 10s, does that make sense? So you’ll still be doing the proper amount of decreases.

      1. Thanks so much for the response, that does make a lot more sense now! One more thing, I can’t quite picture how to decrease on the 10-stitch sections – if I sc 6 and then sc2tog, then I think I’m only 2 away from the next st marker but I still need to sc2tog and sc 6 before the next marker? Sorry for having so many questions, I’m just super super excited for the finished jumper!

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