The Festival Coat Cardigan is a gorgeous, oversized sweater crocheted in joined motifs. The top layer is crocheted in a main colour with lovely lacy stitches, while the contrasting colours below peek through. This coatigan features fitted cuffs, and generous pockets!
The Yarn
To create the Festival Coat Cardigan, I had the pleasure of using Hobbii Yarn for the first time! Hobbii invited me to join their fun Design Along Challenge where readers would be able to choose what I make. We decided on a cardigan created with this beautiful Zafira Yarn, which is light as a cloud!
I think that this yarn really helps make the Festival Coat Cardigan simply for that reason! The yarn is honestly so light-weight, it helped because the cardigan is made with layered squares. This could have gotten quite heavy in another yarn! If you are thinking of making the Festival Cardigan, I highly highly highly recommend ordering Zarfira from Hobbii for it, or else looking for something that is comparable in weight and texture so that your cardigan doesn’t droop or stretch to much from the weight.
You can find Hobbii here in skeins for $5.99 >> https://hobbii.com/zafira
The Hobbii Website describes Zafira :
Hobbii Zafira is a wonderful quality, with cotton creating the basis for a soft mix. The colored wool and acrylic fibers are blown into a fine mesh tube made from pure cotton. The fibres lie like a soft glow inside the tube, and the light cotton net gives the yarn lots of personality with a super-pretty, mottled look.
Zafira is a comfortably warm yarn, and the high amounts of cotton ensures that it doesn’t get too warm. It gives you the coveted, chunky feel with lots of texture and volume. The airy structure keeps the yarn light and it holds its volume nicely without getting heavy, even when you knit/crochet double-stranded. May we also recommend adding a second strand like our Kid Silk or Diablo? Wow, it can create such a beautiful play of colors!
Zafira is easy to work evenly – and at around 5-6 mm (0.2”) results are fast. Use it for all kinds of creative projects, from a fantastic vest / slipover, cute sweater styles, and hats – to pillows and blankets; all with a unique look and some very special, vivid colors.
There are a few other ways to get the Festival Coat Cardigan Crochet Pattern:
- Get the Ad-Free PDF on Ravelry Here >> RAVELRY
- Get the Ad-Free PDF on Etsy Here>> ETSY
- Get the Ad-Free PDF on LoveCrafts Here >> LOVECRAFTS
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If you love the Festival Coat Cardigan, be sure to check out these other great patterns on the blog!
I hope you enjoy making the Festival Coat Cardigan, be sure to tag me on Instagram when you make it so I can gush over your beautiful work!
Here’s the pattern for the Festival Coat Cardigan! Enjoy!
Yarn
Hobbii Zafira Yarn (4 weight) (164yds/ 50g):
Main Colour: Cream 1544 (1544, 1544, 1544, 1544, 1544, 1892, 1892, 1892) yds.
Contrasting Colours: Champagne, Powder, Lavender, Magenta, Light Steel, Vintage Denim, Buttermilk, Curry.
I used 8 CC colours. To find how much yarn you need for your CCs, take the total amount of squares needed for your size and divide it by how many colours you are using. Times that number by the CC yds for total yardage for each colour.
Ex: Size small, 30 squares / 8 colours = 4 squares of 7 colours (28 squares) + 2 more squares = 30 squares.
4 squares x 53 yards = 212 yds each of the 7 colours.
2 squares x 53 yards = 106 yards of final colour.
| Yardage | CC yds per square | Squares needed | Total CC yardage |
| xs | 53 | 30 | 1590 |
| sm | 53 | 30 | 1590 |
| med | 53 | 30 | 1590 |
| lg | 66 | 30 | 1980 |
| 1x | 66 | 30 | 1980 |
| 2x | 66 | 30 | 1980 |
| 3x | 66 | 34 | 2244 |
| 4x | 66 | 34 | 2244 |
| 5x | 66 | 34 | 2244 |
Materials
US Size H/8 (5.0mm) crochet hook, yarn needle, scissors.
Size/ Measurements
Size 1 (xs-med), Size 2 (lg-2x), Size 3 (3x-5x)
Bust = 48 (60, 72)” meant for a loose/roomy fit.
Gauge
3 Rounds of Back Panel = 4”
Square measures 8” x 8”
Abbreviations
Bphdc = back post half double crochet
Ch = chain
Dc = double crochet
Fpdc = front post double crochet
Fphdc = front post half double crochet
Hdc2tog = half double crochet 2 together
RS = Right side of fabric.
Sc = single crochet
Sl st = slip stitch
Tr = treble crochet
WS = Wrong side.
Special Stitches
Fptr5tog (front post treble crochet five together) = *yo twice, insert hook around next st from front to back, yo and draw up a loop, [yo and draw through 2 loops] twice; repeat from * across next 4 sts, yo and draw through remaining loops on hook.
Popcorn = 5 dc in indicated st, drop working loop from hook, insert hook into 1st dc, pick up dropped loop and draw through 1st dc.
Notes
- Weave in ends as work progresses.
Instructions:
Front Panel (Overlay):
With MC.
Round 1: Ch 4, dc in 4th ch from hook, (tr, ch 1, tr, dc, ch 3, sl st) in same space, [ (ch 3, dc, tr, ch 1, tr, dc, ch 3, sl st) ] 3 times in same space–4 petals.
Round 2: Ch 8 (counts as tr, ch 4), [sc in ch-1 space at top of next petal, ch 4, tr around next sl st between petals, ch 4] 3 times, sc in next ch-1 space at top of next petal, ch 4, join to 4th ch of ch-8–4 sc, 4 tr, 8 ch-4 spaces.
Round 3: Sl st to next ch-4 space, ch 2 (not a st), *(Popcorn, 3 dc ((mark center dc with a st marker)), Popcorn, ch 1) in ch-4 space, (popcorn, 3 dc ((mark center dc with a st marker)), popcorn, ch 2) in next ch-4 space; repeat from * around, join–16 popcorn, 4 ch-2 spaces, 24 dc.
Round 4: Sl st to next ch-1 space, ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), dc 4, ch 1, *(3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next ch-2 space, (corner made), ch 1, 5 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1; repeat from * 3 times, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in last ch-2 space, ch 1, join–44dc, 4 ch-2 spaces.
Round 5: Ch 3 (counts as 1st fpdc), fpdc 4, *ch 6, (3 dc ch 2, 3 dc) in next corner ch-2 space, ch 6, skip next 3 corner dcs, fpdc around next 5 dc; repeat from * 3 times, ch 6, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in ch-2 space, ch 6, join–24 dc, 20 fpdc, 8 ch-6 spaces.
Round 6: Ch 3 (not a st), *fptr5tog over next 5 fpdc, ch 4, working over ch-spaces tr in marked st below, ch 4, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next ch-2 space, ch 4, working over ch-spaces tr in next marked st below, ch 4; repeat from * around, join–8 tr, 4 fptr5tog, 24 dc.
Fasten off, weave in ends.
Back Panel (granny square):
Using CC.
Round 1: Ch 4, dc in 4th ch from hook, 2 dc in same st, ch 2, *(3 dc, ch 2) in same space; repeat from * 3 times, join–12 dc, 4 ch-2 spaces.
Round 2: Sl st to next ch-2 space, ch 3, (2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in same st, *ch 1, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next ch-2 space; repeat from * around, ch-1 join–24 dc.
Round 3: Sl st to next ch-2 space, ch 3, (2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in same st, *ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next ch-2 space; repeat from * around, ch 1, 3 dc in last ch-1 space, ch 1, join–36 dc.
Round 4: Sl st to next ch-2 space, ch 3, (2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in same st, *[ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 space] 2 times, ch 1, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next ch-2 space; repeat from * around, [ch 1, 3 dc in last ch-1 space] 2 times, ch 1, join–48 dc.
Round 5: Sl st to next ch-2 space, ch 3, (2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in same st, *[ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 space] 3 times, ch 1, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next ch-2 space; repeat from * around, [ch 1, 3 dc in last ch-1 space] 3 times, ch 1, join–60 dc.
Round 6: Sl st to next ch-2 space, ch 3, (2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in same st, *[ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 space] 4 times, ch 1, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next ch-2 space; repeat from * around, [ch 1, 3 dc in last ch-1 space] 4 times, ch 1, join–72 dc.
Do not fasten off, continue to Joining Round.
Joining Round:
Sl st to next ch-2 space, place Overlay on top matching the ch-2 corners of both panels, sl st both layers together and work all sts around both thicknesses.
Round 7: Ch 3, (2dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in same space, *[ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 space of back/ch-4 space of front] 2 times, ch 1, (working in next ch-1 space of back/same ch-4 space of front) dc, fpdc around fptr5tog, (working in same ch-1 space of back/next ch-4 space of front) dc, ch 1, (working in next ch-1 space of back/same ch-4 space of front) 3 dc, ch 1, (working in next ch-1 space of back/next ch-4 space of front) 3 dc, ch 1, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next ch-2 space; repeat from * around, [ch 1, 3 dc in (next ch-1 space of back/next ch-4 space of front)] 2 times, ch 1, (working in next ch-1 space of back/same ch-4 space of front) dc, fpdc around fptr5tog, (working in same ch-1 space of back/next ch-4 space of front) dc, ch 1, (working in next ch-1 space of back/next ch-4 space of front) 3 dc, ch 1, (working in next ch-1 space of back/next ch-4 space of front) 3 dc, ch 1, join.
Fasten off, weave in ends.
Sizes Lg-5x Extra Round
Round 8: Sl st to next ch-2 corner space, ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), (2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in same space, *[ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 space] 6 times, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next ch-2 space; repeat from * 2 more times, [ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 space] 6 times, ch 1, join–96 dc.
Joining Squares
Following the chart above for your size, join your squares in using your favourite joining method using MC.
For my squares I joined by lining up the ch-1 spaces of two squares and doing 3sc in the ch-1 spaces of both squares held together, chaining one, and continuing on that way across. At the corners, I did (3 sc, ch 2, 3 sc) if I was turning a corner, but if not then just 3sc and then fasten off. I crocheted with the Right Side facing, so all of my stitches left a ridge around the edges of my joined squares. It would look like this:
Round 1: Join with MC in the ch-2 corner of 2 squares held together, working around both thicknesses held together and RS facing, 3 sc in same space, [ch 1, 3 sc in next ch-1 space] 6 (7) times, 3 sc in last ch-2 space.
How to add the Pockets
Add the pocket as shown in the diagram using your favourite joining method.
I joined mine using the same stitch pattern listed above, but this time I worked through all 3 thicknesses when joining (the pocket, the back of the pocket, and the next square we’re joining on to). Keep an eye on what side you are working on and remember to leave the top edge of the pocket free from joining.
Collar
Join to bottom corner of cardigan using MC.
For the first round of the collar, I did a round of hdc to create the base of the ribbing.
I did 3 hdc, [ch 1, 3 hdc in each ch-1 space] until I reached a spot where 2 squares meet. At this space, I did a hdc in the 1st square, hdc2tog over the 1st square and the 2nd, and then a hdc in the 2nd, so (hdc, hdc2tog, hdc) over the two squares at a joining. It looks like this:
Round 1: Ch 1, 3 hdc in same space, *[ch 1, 3 hdc in next ch-1 space] 7 (8) times, working over the next 2 squares (hdc in 1st, hdc2tog in both, hdc in 2nd square); repeat around placing (3 hdc, ch 2, 3 hdc) in bottom corners, join.
Round 2: Ch 1, *fphdc 2, bphdc 2; repeat from * around placing (2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc) in bottom corners.
Rounds 3-4: Repeat Round 2.
Fasten off, weave in ends.
Sleeve Cuffs
Round 1: With MC, join in any ch-1 space around, ch 1, 3 hdc in same space, 3 hdc in each ch-1 space around, join.
Round 2: Ch 1, [hdc, hdc2tog] around, join. *Note, you will want this round to equal a multiple of 4, so if you need to add or take away do so at the end of Round 2.
Round 3: Ch 1, *fphdc 2, bphdc 2; repeat from * around, join.
Rounds 4-11: Repeat Round 3.
Fasten off, weave in ends.
I hope you enjoy making the Festival Coat Cardigan, thanks for stopping by, and happy Crocheting!
Thank you for this lovely jacket. Just what I was looking for. Is the pattern in US terminology. I am in Australia and our patterns use British terminology so dc in American is treble in British instructions. I am now realising that I should have completed a British treble where you have dc. Is this correct?
Hello! Yes this is US terms.
I wondered if you could advise on the collar. The pattern says 3hdc in each ch sp, ch1 then 3hdc in next space all around. on the next row it is 2 fpdhc followed by 2 bphdc are these just woeked around the hdc from previous round? Does this mean the ch1 are skipped?
Hey there! Yes that’s correct, the chains are skipped.
This is such a beautiful jacket thank you for the pattern. I’ve added button holes. as soon as I’ve added the buttons I’ll add a photo in projects on Ravelry.
Thank you!
Hi. I am just finishing this beautiful cardigan, but I have to say it is fitting smaller than the photo showed. My gauge was spot on with your pattern; the squares were 8 x 8 and I made the size that is supposed to fit xs to 2x as I am a medium to large. The back is 24+ inches across once the squares are sewn together and the front panels are only 8 inches on each side….very narrow. I doubled the rows on the trim around the sweater to add more inches. It is so lovely and I really want to fit nicely, but I don’t know how the instructions would be the same for an xs up to a 2x! I probably should have used a larger hook to make the squares roomier. In any event, it is a lovely pattern and looks very nice, if fitting smaller than I would have liked.
Hey there! Thank you so much for the feedback, I will take a look at this!
I asked the same question on one of your Instagram posts but thought you might see it easier here….
I’m trying to figure out which size I would need. In some things I’m a medium and in some things I’m a large.
It looks like the size is the same for x small-medium and large-double x. I don’t want it to be tight on me but I also don’t want to be super swimming in it 🤔
Thoughts, suggestions?
Thanks!!!
I love this so much and haven’t crocheted in forever and really want to do something like this where it’s smaller pieces instead of one large thing 😁
Hey there! I would go with the smaller size, it might suit your needs better 🌷
Hi! I love this cardigan and want to make it. Unfortunately the Zafira yarn is being discontinued! Do you have any recommendations for alternatives? Preferably available in the UK? Thanks.
Hey there! Any light weight yarn will work great!
Something I’m kind of confused about with your instructions is the example image. The charts say size large is 30 squares, but the image for constructing the cardigan says 34 squares. Should one follow what the chart says or what the images indicate?
Sorry about that! It’s the chart with the yardage you need to follow, I need to update my graphic that is incorrect. I’ll do that now! Thanks for catching this error!
It’s updated now, thank you!